latkes

from power vegetables

i was a little late for passover, but i wanted to try this latke recipe that uses matzo meal instead of flour. i used the manischewitz mix, which i realized actually has some extra seasonings (mainly MSG, i think). i couldn’t discern the difference between the regular ones i make with flour. some people use matzo meal for the texture, some maybe because it makes latkes passover friendly. i think i am fine with either flour or matzo meal, i think the main thing that makes a difference is squeezing extra water from the potatoes. i topped these the same way as molly baz’s giant latke, with dill, pickled white onion, and horseradish caper sour cream.

MAKES TWENTY-FOUR 4-INCH PANCAKES

2 lb russet potatoes

1 lb yellow onions

2 eggs, beaten

4 C matzo meal or crushed saltine crackers 2 t kosher salt, plus more for finishing 4t freshly ground black pepper

+ neutral oil, for frying

+ for serving: sour cream, applesauce, ketchup

1. Peel the potatoes and onions and grate them with a box grater-set it inside a dish and grate the potatoes lengthwise into long strands. Grate the onions over the potatoes and toss them with your hands to combine. (The onion juice will keep the potatoes from turning brown.)

2. Place the potato-and-onion mixture into a clean kitchen towel, gather the corners, and squeeze the bundle to expel as much liquid as possible. Dump the mixture into a large bowl and add the eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper. Mix with a fork or your hands until the mixture is uniform.

3. Pour 1⁄2 inch oil into a 12-inch skillet (that should be about 3/4 cup) and heat over medium heat. Drop a few strands of potato into the oil as your canaries in the coal mine: Once they sizzle, the oil is ready for latke making. Using three fingers, loosely pick up to 1⁄2 cup of latke mixture and lay it into the oil, forming a 3-to 4-inch round with plenty of loose strands around the edges. Repeat to form 4 pancakes.

4. Cook the latkes until the bottoms are golden brown and crispy, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip them with a slotted spatula (I could imagine Mitchell using a Peltex, one of those fish spatulas that were once all the rage with pro chefs) and continue frying, moderating the heat so they cook evenly and do not burn, until crispy all over, another 6 to 7 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spatula and lay on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Pour enough oil to measure / inch again and continue cooking latkes.

5. If the latkes become cold before serving, reheat in a warm oven until crispy, 5 to 10 minutes (don't hold them in the oven or they will dry out). Salt lightly before serving.